Author Topic: Curing...  (Read 314 times)

nobwas

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Curing...
« on: September 18, 2018, 05:23:55 PM »
My new Miuras curing... 

CB1008 99.3 pure iron 4-PW / TT Monaco Stiff Soft Stepped x 1
MG S-01 Tour 51 & 57 / WV 115 Tour

Pro Soft Inserts + Iomic IXx 2.3 (Red) grips to be installed.




« Last Edit: September 18, 2018, 06:52:05 PM by nobwas »
DR: Modart MA01D+R / Diamana W
FW: Modart MA01F / Diamana 'Ahina
UT: Modart MA01H / Crazy STP
IR:  Epon AF-505/SUS316 / Modus 125
WG: MG S-01 / Modus Wedge 125
PT:  Ping Vault 2.0 CRAZ-E H ( in trial mode )

DaleUK

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Re: Curing...
« Reply #1 on: September 18, 2018, 05:44:02 PM »
Very nice Build
If your not part of the Solution , then your part of the Problem!!

"Strength And Honor "

I got a Gibson
Without a case
But I can't get that even tanned look on my face

tsupo67

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Re: Curing...
« Reply #2 on: September 18, 2018, 05:48:13 PM »
beaitiful combo.will be hard to replace, even for you!
TM 1993 bubble burner 11.93* listed as 9*
green POS callway 3w
hammer time 5w
TMfastestbackever super long distance ultra speed irons 17* jacked. longest irons set  ever(again)
hippo remote wedge
billyburu flatty
maxfli balata, what else!

Robbiez

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Re: Curing...
« Reply #3 on: September 18, 2018, 07:26:47 PM »
DO any of you guys use a halogen lamp to help the curing process along ?

nobwas

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Re: Curing...
« Reply #4 on: September 18, 2018, 07:59:58 PM »
For graphite shafts,  I just use the quick cure stuff .. .so it's ready within 30 minutes.     
For steel shafts,  I have had heads come loose with the quick cure epoxy so I only use the 24 hour cure.

Lamp is just to give it a warmer curing eviornnment, correct?
DR: Modart MA01D+R / Diamana W
FW: Modart MA01F / Diamana 'Ahina
UT: Modart MA01H / Crazy STP
IR:  Epon AF-505/SUS316 / Modus 125
WG: MG S-01 / Modus Wedge 125
PT:  Ping Vault 2.0 CRAZ-E H ( in trial mode )

wmclarenf1

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Re: Curing...
« Reply #5 on: September 18, 2018, 10:26:23 PM »
Those are shock dampening Styrofoam like shaft inserts?
Drivers : Crazy435Angel5-GTD455Crazy9-ItoboriXanadu-ProceedIXBurningAngel
UTs : Itobori-ModartMA01H-ProceedTi-PXG0317
Irons : GrindStudioProto-RoddioMeisterM-ModartCBC-PXG0311T
Wedges : GrindStudio-Orion-PXG
Putters : ArGolf-Benock-BPutters-Machine-Masda-Nead-PXG-Slighter-TPMills-Xenon
Ball : Chrome

wmclarenf1

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Re: Curing...
« Reply #6 on: September 18, 2018, 10:28:07 PM »
For graphite shafts,  I just use the quick cure stuff .. .so it's ready within 30 minutes.     
For steel shafts,  I have had heads come loose with the quick cure epoxy so I only use the 24 hour cure.

Lamp is just to give it a warmer curing eviornnment, correct?

I'm told when heated to a certain temp for a certain period, it hastens the curing process.  Can't remember the temp and duration.

I like the  golf works quick set epoxy.  Less than 5 minutes set time and easy to uninstall with low heat.
Drivers : Crazy435Angel5-GTD455Crazy9-ItoboriXanadu-ProceedIXBurningAngel
UTs : Itobori-ModartMA01H-ProceedTi-PXG0317
Irons : GrindStudioProto-RoddioMeisterM-ModartCBC-PXG0311T
Wedges : GrindStudio-Orion-PXG
Putters : ArGolf-Benock-BPutters-Machine-Masda-Nead-PXG-Slighter-TPMills-Xenon
Ball : Chrome

db2

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Re: Curing...
« Reply #7 on: September 18, 2018, 11:01:52 PM »
I like the  golf works quick set epoxy.  Less than 5 minutes set time and easy to uninstall with low heat.

Do you find that the quick set epoxy (curing time less than an hour) requires less heat to remove than the 24 hour stuff?

Robbiez

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Re: Curing...
« Reply #8 on: September 19, 2018, 12:14:19 AM »
The breakdown temperature of the epoxy is ingredient dependent....it does not matter on the curing time.....Ideally you want something that will breakdown at 250 deg F or less......The heat lamp ensures a more solid bonding process, and seems to prevent tiny air bubbles from forming in the epoxy.....my favs is the 3M DP810 epoxy and I employ shafting beads and a heat lamp......its just warm not hot...I don't use a hot box  ( box lined with aluminum foil ). 

Some of the epoxies out there have extremely high break down temps and those are horrible for graphite shafts, you basically damage the shaft before the epoxy will break down....The lower the temp the better in terms of salvaging graphite shafts.  On a side note, the 7D shafts have some of the strongest tips I have ever seen on a graphite shaft.

wmclarenf1

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Re: Curing...
« Reply #9 on: September 19, 2018, 01:17:34 AM »
I like the  golf works quick set epoxy.  Less than 5 minutes set time and easy to uninstall with low heat.

Do you find that the quick set epoxy (curing time less than an hour) requires less heat to remove than the 24 hour stuff?

Yup.  Which is great for graphite shafts.
Drivers : Crazy435Angel5-GTD455Crazy9-ItoboriXanadu-ProceedIXBurningAngel
UTs : Itobori-ModartMA01H-ProceedTi-PXG0317
Irons : GrindStudioProto-RoddioMeisterM-ModartCBC-PXG0311T
Wedges : GrindStudio-Orion-PXG
Putters : ArGolf-Benock-BPutters-Machine-Masda-Nead-PXG-Slighter-TPMills-Xenon
Ball : Chrome

db2

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Re: Curing...
« Reply #10 on: September 19, 2018, 08:28:07 AM »
That’s exactly why I asked.

Robbiez

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Re: Curing...
« Reply #11 on: September 19, 2018, 10:16:34 AM »
Curing time is independent of Epoxy Temperature breakdown, there are many fast drying epoxies that will not break down at low temperatures.  When I am choosing a Epoxy, I look for shear strength and temperature breakdown.  There are no epoxies manufactured for golf clubs.  Golf supply companies buy a large barrel of epoxy with favorable characteristics for golf club shafting and then repackage them. 

* Oh and for those of us who reshaft irons all the time, do u notice that a set that has been made for only a few days is very easy to take apart but a set that has been made and allowed to sit for several years is much harder to take apart ?
« Last Edit: September 19, 2018, 10:20:25 AM by Robbiez »

db2

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Re: Curing...
« Reply #12 on: September 19, 2018, 10:24:13 AM »
What temperature does the DP810 breakdown at?

db2

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Re: Curing...
« Reply #13 on: September 19, 2018, 02:42:06 PM »
* Oh and for those of us who reshaft irons all the time, do u notice that a set that has been made for only a few days is very easy to take apart but a set that has been made and allowed to sit for several years is much harder to take apart ?

Here’s a response from the vendor of the GolfWorks’ 24-hour set epoxy: “For the EPX Series epoxies you can use this cure schedule: 7 days at 77F (90% strength within 24 hrs, 100% in 7 days) 2 hrs. at 150F (full cure) 10 minutes at 300F (full cure)”.

So it’s a week until the epoxy has fully cured—assuming the temperature is 77*.  If it’s colder than that, it will take longer than a week to fully cure (and longer than 24 hours to set). 

Robbiez

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Re: Curing...
« Reply #14 on: September 19, 2018, 06:50:37 PM »
At 180 F, the shear strength is reduced to 500 psi